I just recently returned from a ten day climbing excursion to Mallorca. Mallorca, also spelled Majorca, is a small island off the coast of Spain in the Mediterranean Sea known for it's climbing and fabulous terrain for road biking. I went with no set plan in order to explore the island in its entirety.
The first location worth noting is Port de Pollenca, a small fishing port which is central to many of the on land craigs. In Port de Pollenca I rented a bicycle and in either direction from the city, following the coast line, one inevitably happens upon cove after cove with amazing beaches, that if your lucky lack a single person to enjoy them. On the first day with the bike, I made my way to Coll Baix, a beach that is known for how secluded it is. It is an hour and a half bike ride to the trail head, and then about a half hour hike down to the beach. This beach was absolutely breathtaking, and I would recommend it to anyone who visits the northwest of Mallorca. It is a nudist beach so if you do venture there just keep in mind you will be surrounded by many free spirits. Just off of Coll Baix was the first cave I found perfect for deep water soloing. There is only one problem with the location, and that is that if anything were to go wrong, the only way out would be by boat or helicopter. I had a great go on the line I had picked out, and would like to go back with a boat in order to project it. The route involves about 150' of bouldering in order to gain access to the cave, once in the cave, traverse from left to right and at the right outer edge of the cave start heading up. The line was beautiful other than a few wet spots here and there.
My next main stay in Mallorca was in Cala D'or, which is located in the southeast quadrant of the island. The east coast is known for it's deep water soloing, and is home to one of the hardest routes in the world, that being on "es Pontas" a famous rock arch just outside of Cala Santanyi. I got a chance to do a bit of climbing on the east coast but unfortunately weather blew in, creating wave swells that were far to dangerous to even consider climbing over the sea and risk falling in. At one of the climbing areas just outside of Cala Santanyi that I went to, in order to see if there was any possibility of getting on some rock, I noticed a difference in sea level of 30 to 40 feet, in only a matter of seconds. I did get a chance to see "es Pontas" and it truly is an inspiring formation.
The trip overall was a great success, I got to see much of the island as well as spend my days either climbing over the sea or in it. I now know where to go for specific types of climbing on this island, for the island has a lot to offer as far as climbing goes. Also I would recommend this island for road bikers, for the island is perfectly set up with hostels set in beautifully placed staging areas around the island to accommodate bikers.
Deep water solo just outside of Coll Baix.
(Bueno Majo)
It looks deep enough...
Port de Pollenca at dawn.
